Outback Beef and Barra — part 1

We're going to catch up with a couple of good mates of mine. We're gonna check out some Top End pubs. Check out a campground, and we're going to do some Top End barrow fishing. Cannot wait.

It's gonna be an absolute purla. Keep it down on low bush track. I fall, you drive. Yeah, like it like that.

The wicked comes, and now's time to go. Alls out I'm for the show Yeah.

On part one of our two part Outback Beef and Barra episode of Oz Off Road TV, I'm Flying Solo, although my blue cattle dog and best mate, Clancy, has come along for a ride. After kicking off our adventure at Old Cork Station near Winton in Queensland, we travel west through to Clon Curry, make our way to the Berke and Wills Roadhouse, then west to the Lawnhill region, cut back through to the border town of Camerwheel, and onto the northern territory town of Daly Waters. You know, what amazes me just how fast a place can become ruined, as nature takes back a patch of ground that was once home to many, it's been only 40 years since his homestead was abandoned, what's left today is simply amazing. What do you reckon?

Unbelievable. Well, it's hard to believe that people actually lived in here. Hard country out here, didn't I? You all right, mate?

There might be ghosts in here. Why, Clancy's a little bit dumb. The ruins of Old Cork Station has been described as a ghost itself, and it has been said that the place is haunted by those who once called this place home, located about 130 kilometres southwest of Winton. This one sandstone homestead was one of the original properties in the Wintonshire.

Settled in the 1870s, it was actually the mull distribution point before Winton was established. Although this changed at the turn of the 20th century. Workers in their families continued to live on the property until it was abandoned in the 1980s. As the station changed hands often, little of the history of Old Cork Station can be found in the record books.

So what the old floor seen better days? Reckon it's due for Renaults? Mate, you take a fair bit to polish it up, I'd reckon. How much do you reckon something like this would go for in the property market now?

In Sydney, probably a couple of mil. Although Clancy might be onto something, don't let the ghost scare you off. Old Cork Station is a great place to visit that comes with a great bush camp on the banks of the Diamond Tina and is a reminder of the pioneering history of Australia. Well, you got to love Old Cork Station, quite a place, really.

There's history everywhere here. We got a pretty big day ahead of us from here, though. We're going to eat a little bit more dust, which means we need to wash that dust down, so I'm going to introduce you to a mate of mine later today. who was Australia's number one publican.

In fact, he's been voted the best publican in Australia. It's fair to say though, I'm the one who actually voted. I think I was the only one who voted. He is a real character, and he is the man behind the bar at probably Australia's most famous pub.

With about 400 kilometres from here to the pub, our journey begins along the Cork Mail Road. Now, I did mention that the mail distribution centre was relocated from Old Cork to Winton at the turn of the 20th century. This was because this road we are driving on now was often cut off for several weeks during big rain, and the mail just couldn't get through. These days, though, it's a great Outback Drive, and part of the Winton Pioneer Trail.

Gee, I'm glad we came out here. If you listen to me on the radio, you'll know I'm always talking up the channel country, I absolutely love it. It's just big open spaces, massive blue sky. The natural scrub, the red dirt, dusty rads, I just love it.

This is fading, I mean. That's what I call the real Australia. It's no wonder, this time of year, that thousands of people flock out to these parts and have a look for themselves. Do yourself a favour. If you want to come out and see the rule Australia, get out to the outback and come to places just like this.

Around the Diamond Tina, the Channel country. There's a lot to take in here, I can tell you. I absolutely love it. Not too much longer until we get to the, uh, famous pub, and I've got to say to you, the weather is just absolutely sensational up here.

It's no wonder that thousands of gray nomads and young travellers head to this part of the world during the winter months. It's just like summer in the southern parts of the country right now here. And this road we're on now is the main road that runs from Queensland to the Northern territory. Sees a lot of traffic, a lot of road trains.

Anyway, we're just Eddie joining the fray with everybody else. How good is we love it? We finally made it. You little beauty.

Originally named the Federal Hotel, it was renamed after the fictional town Walkabout Creek in the Australia's most famous movie, Crocodile Dundee. It is the actual pub from the movie, and is located in the Queensland outback town of McKinley. If you have seen the movie, the pub is instantly recognisable the minute you walk through the doors with photos, signage, and props from the actual movie. This place has become part of Australia's history.

The shire itself, both cattle stations and mines, and has an estimated population of around 120 people. However, the actual town itself currently has a population of only eight people. Now, I did say that we were going to one of Australia's most famous pubs. In fact, it is the number one pub in Australia.

Well, that might be the publican, because he is the number one publican in Australia. And, of course, that man is my mate, Frank, Frank, how are you, son? Good luck. How are you, mate?

Good to see you. I'm going good, mate. It's good to be here. It's good to see you.

You're looking good too. I mean, I like to look my best, mate, you know. Yeah, you could do a bit of work, but anyway. Mate, the walk about Creek, hey, too.

You better for 10 years. We've been here then, mate. Yeah, yeah. Cockodile Dundee's a long time ago, but people have still got this fascination with not only the movie, but the pub itself, the Walkabout Creek Hotel.

We're on the highway here, the main road that runs spacely from Queensland, right in the northern territory, but it was never here. It used to be around the corner. Yeah, it was about 300 yards down the road, Duck, there when they filmed the movie. They moved it up here in 1996, 10 years after the first movie.

For a couple of reasons, the bloke that owned it at the time, it was barely in need of restumping, and they couldn't get under it to restart, because it was, you know, really low to the ground, and probably the highway exposure as well. Now, you came in here just over 10 years ago, on your way back from some trip somewhere, called, it had a beer like a lot of people do, like us and others, and then went home, jumped on Google, and she's for sale. Yeah, well, that's not exactly right. We're going to the... That was close.

We were going to the camel races in bullion. And when we got to, when we got to bullion, my missiles googled it. Me wife Googled it, and she said, no, that pops us out. And I said, let's look into behind that pub.

Yeah, right, OK, so you bought the pub. Did you ever think you'd be a publican? No. No.

Australia's number one public? I mean, I've crowned you that. I'm not sure. I'm not sure whether everyone else agrees, but mate, you're number one as far as I'm concerned.

You're basically part of the tourism business now. I mean, you got you got the great facilities out the back, plenty of caravan sites. There's that many people here, even today, we're here. They come in, have a few beers and a feed and sit out the front.

How good is it out there? Just sit there and once the world go by. There's worst places in there, mate, that's for sure. Can you believe that people still want to come and check out this pub after all these years? Some people come in and they'll say, oh, you know, this will die out, you know, with the next generation or whatever.

And then we'll have kids come in there 5 and 6 years old and they're quoting lines out of the movie, because, I mean, it's a great movie, let's face it. Well, I can never die. in my opinion. The product here, the beer, is always cold, but it's a big job.

It's got to be tested. Constantly monitored. No? Yeah, yeah. We don't want to be selling an inferior product.

Whose job is it to sit in the cool room and drink the beer to make sure it's all good? I gotta say, it's not easy, Duck, but I'll have to take that title. Yeah, yeah, no. Alright, you're a good man, Frank?

Might pay you. Absolutely, mate. You say that now, but in another couple of hours, you might not be saying that... Get that bloke out of here. Never be throwing us out.

Yeah, exactly. Poor Deb. I wonder if that original bar from the movie is where Frank hides to test the product on a daily basis. Oh no, that's right.

He hides in the cool room. This is a field hank in the backy. Turn in, huh? Oh, OK.

Here we go. Frank Dundee. Get out of the way! Dobby.

What are you talking to me, are you? Fish. That don't work on me. Oh, well, what a great spot, that Walk about Creek puppy.

She's Frank's a character, isn't he? Oh, that's what it is. mate, he's one of the best. I tell you.

I've got a fair day today. We're actually hitting, uh, up towards the Mary Kathleen. Have a look at that, and then we're gonna make our way out to a pretty well known camp spot. I'm not sure where we'll end up tonight, but, uh, wherever that'll be, there'll be another good spot, 'cause everywhere out here's pretty good, isn't it?

You gotta love it. I mentioned good spots. There are a mountain of them out here, and it's not hard to work out, why so many gray nomads and general travellers hit these parts at this time of the year. It's a shame that we just don't have the time on this trip to stop at them all, because when travelling around Longreach through to the Channel country, you are sport for choice with things like the Qantas Museum, the Stockman Hall of Fame all at Longreach, the dinosaur trails and waltzing Matilda Centre in Winton, a couple of good pubs, and, of course, the Mary Kathleen, which is where we are off to next.

Driving out here beats the motorways in the beak smoke. There's just no comparison, is there? In 1954. The Queen Mount Isa and Clon Curry, Norman McConaughey, and John Walton, members of a prospecting syndicate of nine, discovered a great uranium deposit.

Immediately, they staked a claim, which they called Mary Caffeine, after Mr. McConoughey's deceased wife. Mary Kathleen is located about 1,700 kilometres northwest of Brisbane and only 52 kilometres east of Mount Isaac. Settled in 1860s, uranium was first discovered at this very remote location by Clem Walton and Norma Conachie in 1954, and the mine and township was named after the late wife of McConachie, prospecting and exploitation rights were onsold, and in 1955, Rio Tinto Mining formed Mary Kathleen uranium Limited to develop a mine and a service town. Mining began from the end of 1956 and all was processed on site, and with orders processed by 1963,

The mine was closed and left idle until around 1974. With new supply contracts from overseas markets, the 2nd life of Mary Kathleen was extended until resources were exhausted in 1984. Just driving through the Mary Kathleen township here, and it's amazing how many people are taking advantage of where there were once a lot of house slaves. So there are people in here in caravans, a whole heap of them, basically just pulling up beside a slab. It's quite incredible.

The town of Mary Kathleen was located six kilometres away from the actual mind site and was built around a shallow valley. Like most towns of this era. It contained a post office, a school, banks, a temporary hospital, and a community store. It even had a cinema and sports ovals.

Water for Mary Kathleen was pumped in from nearby Lake Carella Dam, and around 1961, approximately a thousand people lived at the new township, and a real friendly community lifestyle in every sense of the word, was the way of life here. As with the mine, the township temporarily closed until the mine reopened in mid 1974, and with the population of around 80 people, it didn't stay at that for long, as it quickly grew to 700 the following year and peaked at around 1200 in 1981. I'm tipping spending the 60s living here was a little different than other communities right across Australia at that time. So if you're ever travelling between Mount Isa and Clon Curry, you're looking for a free camp with a bit of a difference and a lot of history, be sure to check out Mary Kathleen.

It's hard to believe this place was actually once a town in the 1950s, and then all closed down in the '80s. Now it's a free camping paradise. Be sure to check it out, Mary Kathleen. What we got going on here, Duck?

We're gonna be a bit late on the road today, and, mate, we'd rather just put them up a couple of beers, wouldn't we, then, just to start cooking, so I'm gonna cook now. Right? Start the process now. But then, magically, our feet tonight will be cooking while we're driving out there, right?

So this is the magic potty. We'll get her out. We got the eco heat portable induction cooker. Well, turn her on.

What am I gonna do, Gav? I'm afraid there's chicken in here. That I cut up, don't we job of cutting it up, eh? You did, look at that.

So I'm gonna cheat. put a bit of this curry sausage stuff, even though it's chicken. And squeeze that in there. Got some mixed veggies in the freezer here.

Hey, what is it? You prepared them earlier. Prepare. I prepared these much earlier.

Okay, that might be enough. You know what we're gonna do, Gav. What chip a jar of this in? Another one in.

Bugger it. Yeah, you put it all, you know. It is curry. We want to make it like real curry.

Prepare one of these earlier as well. Put a bit of that in. That's probably heaps. What I'm gonna do is just mix all that around, mate.

Fancy looks keen. This might be a bit rich for Clancy. Turn this on. That's what we do.

We put this on here for a few minutes. It'll heat this up. These ecoheat induction plates are beautiful, mate. they're really good

Alright, Gav, that'll be enough now. We get that off, take it off the induction. Cook it, stick it in there. Done.

By the time we pull up a tea, mate. We're having curry chicken. Beautiful. Yeah.

Well, uh, we're in a fair day. I mean, started off at Mulcabair Creek this morning. At the pub there, McKin Lane, and then, obviously, we went up to Mary Kath Lane. I reckon we could have settled in there, actually, dude, there was a lot of people keeping back there. But we want to go to Adele's grave.

We're getting a picture of points on the roads, going, yeah, the lawn hill and that, since the big floods are out there very well back now. And we bumped into a bloke who's actually doing a road work, who told us that should go back into Clon Curry and out through Gregory. Uh, mate, another couple of phone calls and sort of would tip the same advice. So, we're heading back down along the road. The Normans are now, so we might even pull up snumps at the Burton wheels Roadhouse, and then we might get a bit more of a feeding and road report, and then we'll make tracks from there. After a few more hours on the road, we arrive at the Burke and Wills Roadhouse, where we'll pull up stumps for the night. I've got to tell you, after a big day, I reckon we are just beginning to feel a bit peckish, and this chicken curry is going to go down, alright, I reckon.

I notice you're riing it off a little bit too, Clancy. Sorry, mate. Dry dog food and a bone for you, my boy. After a good night's sleep, we wake up to a cracking morning behind the Birke and Wills Roadhouse, and with a big day ahead, it's time to fill up the only thing that I know drinks more than me.

Every litre counts out here, every litre. You don't want to be running out of fuel here. It's a long walk to anywhere, so we'll fill up some cans and grab every drop of fuel we can muster. Joe, I've got to tell you, the trucks out here are enormous.

If you're not used to it, you need to take a bit of care around some of these road trains, especially when you're overtaking them and the like. Usually, it's pretty good. Good idea to give them a bit of a shout on the radio, and let them know you're coming around. Nine times out of ten.

They'll actually back off a bit for you, so you can get around safe. At the end of the day, if you get stuck behind one, just be patient, I'd reckon, but, uh, they're pretty big trucks out this way. They card everything from cattle to general supplies and fuel, which is a pretty important part of what goes on out here. You need fuel.

So, uh, if you're coming out this way, be prepared to run into a few ray trains and come across them and just be, uh, as they say, road train wise. They're out there doing a job, and this is their workplace. So they move out of their way and let them go through. They're a lot bigger than you are.

The trucks are big out here, but I'm probably more careful around the odd caravan. Some can be pretty unpredictable at times. After leaving Birke and Wills, our next stop is Adele's Grove, and although it's only around 230 case to get there, it'll still take us a fair bit of time. One good thing about it, we finally hit some dirt road.

Air down the tyres, and get ready for another remote spectacular drive ahead. Bit rough. Oh, mate, just do the right thing. We'll air down, eh?

Just a bit. Sounds sensible. Yeah, well, a lot of rock sharp rocks on here, so troubles, we've got four tighter platers. 8 now.

Anyway. Well, we keep on keeping on, and I've got to tell you, this dirt road runs from the highway out to Adele's Grove. Jeez, it's Seni. Egypt's in pretty good condition.

Um, I've obviously done a bit of work out here. It's very dusty, but, uh, an unbelievable experience out here. Been a few years since I've driven out this way, and, um, seemed to be a little bit greener. Plenty of shrubs around, but just, you know, as you drive around the mountain ranges and stuff. It's just a really good drive, and, um, you're not sure what's coming, so you just take your time and enjoy the experience.

We'll get into Adils, and we'll suss out what's going on there, but, uh, in the meantime, we've still got about 50 odd Ks or 60 Ks to go. So we'll just cruise on in and enjoy the view. So you talk about views. This water crossing looks like it's been built by professional landscape gardeners.

I got some really good advice a while back. Last time I was here, if you are crossing these, uh, just go, go through on idol, has a very slippery bottom, and they got concrete pads, so it's not rough going through, but there's a lot of moss and slime on the top of them. So if you're going through, especially towing a caravan and carrying me in the size of this one, just take your time and cruise through gently, but, geez, it's a great run through here. And the closer we get to Adele's, the better the drive gets.

There's lots to take in, it's just sensational up here. I went down That will begin Now went down I went down. That broke again.

I went down that road. We made it along, but it looks like we've come across another water crossing here, which wasn't here last time I was here. The creek was here, but there was no water in it. And there's no concrete pad on this one, so she's a little bit rougher.

Ooh. But there's a real big hole there. Then it's squaw. Go through easy here.

We're being through really nice and easy. I don't want to shake the beers up too much. Okay, and we're through. That was a little bit deeper than I thought.

With Lawn Hill National Park currently closed, while flood repairs take place, we almost have this place to ourselves. It's certainly a rare treat, as bookings are usually essential here. Well, here we are at the beautiful Adele's grave. We're standing here right on this waterway here.

It is unbelievable. The colour of this water is quite incredible, and it's actually because there's a lot of calcium in the water here. How do I know that? That's because I'm smart.

No, not really. But I was told that. But look, if you are travelling around the Mount Isaac Camerwheel region, and you're out touring, Adele's campground is an absolute definite stopoff for you, that is for sure. The road in's great.

A couple of water crossings. It's a bit of an adventure, but when you get here, it is a fantastic place to visit. Described by many as an oasis in the Outback, Adele's grave is about 10 kilometres from the Lawn Hill National Park. This place really does cater for the caravaner in camper, and with fully serviced on site cabins, the general tourer is looked after as well. First class facilities, license bar and restaurant with Shady Camp spots by the water, and large caravan sites, there is something for everyone here.

Boat rides, canoe hire, fishing and swimming. This is a great place to stay, and the kids will love this place even more than you do. Gee, this place is a cracking spot. And the locals seem pretty friendly as well.

Gee, they seem to get on well, don't they? Long before being a campground and tourist hotspot, Adele's grave was actually a garden that supplied siege to botanical gardens all over the world. The name Adele's comes from the initials of the botanist, Albert D. La Sting, who owned the property in 1920. Although, during his time at Adele's, he did run a general store from the property from passing travellers.

Albert's business was gardening, though, and at one time, he had over 2,000 species of plants introduced onto the property. In the 1950s, the property was damaged by flooded animals, and soon after was totally destroyed by fire. With age catching up to old Albert, he struggled to get the place up and running again, and leaving the property, Adells became a mining camp. Today, a small portion of Albert's botanical oasis still exist at Adele's grave.

So be sure to go exploring if you're camping at this bucket list destination. It's a great spot at Adele's grave. So if you're travelling in this area whilst you're touring around exploring, be sure to come and check it out, just like we did. After a great camp over at this top spot,

It's time to farewell the locals and keep on moving. I did say that the locals were friendly though, didn't I? Oi, get yourself a room, eh? After leaving Adele's, we bump into the listener of my camping in off-road radio show.

I knew he was out there somewhere. Now, normally, we would have taken a run out to Lornhill, but it's still closed due to the floods, so it's time to head towards the territory, but rest assured, crews are out there fixing things up, including my radio show listener, so it won't be long before Lornhill is welcoming visitors to this awesome place again soon. We can't wait for Lornhill to reopen so people can get out there and enjoy this very unique part of the world. Well, how good was Adele's grave?

It's beautiful there. I mentioned it's like an oasis in the Outback. Something else. It's a bit of a shame about Lornhill being closed, but at the end of the day, it is what it is.

It's only temporarily closed, so hopefully they'll get that sorted. There was plenty of people out there working on the roads and fixing up things after the flood damage. Still a few people camping in a dell zone. I couldn't believe it.

Just people just relaxing and chilling out. Anyway, that's Adele's. We're moving on through to camera wheel. We'll grab some fuel there. And then make our way into the Northern territory.

So another big day ahead. It's quite unbelievable just how far wide spread the damage is from the big rain that fell here in March in 2023. It was certainly a big wet with over 500 mil of rain falling in less than 36 hours. It's been 18 months since the big floods that not only decimated Lawnhill, but absolutely tall parts of this region apart, smashing flood level records as far back as the early 1970s. I came to the city as a cyclone And I love still like a shake of lightning

I'm all shook up, like some patient pain. into my And when I did, we rolled back all the way, you show And my fish. Broadway, 'Cause I'm getting down on music.

What'd you try if you later can, Teddy? Int Riding up into sunset. Into some sun... Flowering goats country now, that's for sure.

The Northern Territory. And, mate, I absolutely love it up here. It's, uh... it's probably my favourite part of Australia. I got a few.

I like North Queensland, the Channel country, Outbank Queensland as well. The Northern Territory's just something special, and we won't pull up at the Barclay Roadhouse, the homestead tonight. And then it's up to the Top End for a bit of adventure. A couple of ball pubs and a little bit of barrow fishing.

Can't wait for that. Anyway, the Northern Territory. She's just another world here, mate, I absolutely love it. After another big day that started at Adele's, we pull up at Berkeley Roadhouse, which is located between Camerwell and the three ways near Tenant Creek.

It's the only fuel stop for the 460K distance, and is a popular overnight stopover with an abundance of caravan and camping sites, as well as cabin accommodation options. There's plenty of room out the back as well, and after a couple of days in the car, there's heaps of space for clinging to get out, stretch his legs, and go for a run. What's on the cards today, Doc? Something different today?

More driving. Anyway, welcome to the, uh, how to fill up your car with the petrol show. Cheap, you too. Well, after a pretty good night at the Berkeley Homestead Roadhouse, we're gonna get ourselves to the Daly Waters pub, have a look around.

It'd be good to catch up with old mate, Tim at the pub. We'll show you Tim Shed. If you've never been to Tim Shed, at Daly Waters, mate, you've never seen anything. So, in the meantime, bit of driving ahead of us again today.

Jeez, there's some long stretches out here, that's for sure. Long stretches are becoming part of our life on this trip. We've actually knocked over 1,600 kilometres since we left Old Cork Station, and with another 570 in front of us today, you could be mistaken for thinking, this is the Groundhog Day version of driving. Gee, they certainly truck some big gear out in these parts.

Check this thing out. Now, that's a bucket. There's no shortage of people out and about. Geez, I don't think I've seen so many Caribbeans on the road.

I guess all those caravans that they sold during COVID times, and, well, they're not parked in driveways and backyards, they're all out here on the highways. Now we're talking Daly Waters. I just love this place. It's an absolute purler.

Daly Waters is located about 620 kilometres south of Darwin, and it's a population of around 55 people, and is famous for the iconic Daly Waters pub. The name Daly Waters was given to a series of natural springs by Scottish explorer John McDowell Stewart in 1861, and was actually named after the governor of South Australia, Sir Dominic Daly. Not sure if you saw me do this before in this episode, but... He's a little bit more go go, juice. Now, I did mention that Daly Waters is famous for the pub, but there is more to this place than just the famous watering hole. The minute you drive into town, the feeling of real Australia hits a square between the eyes, with monuments and Aussie history everywhere.

You really need to visit this place to experience the real deal feel of the Australian way of life. And no visit to Daly Waters is complete without a visit to Tim's Junkyard. Yeah, goods this. Look at the gear in here.

Unbelievable, mate. It's a bit different. Well, mate, there's a new model Ozloff Road trail built caravan over there. No, this is Tim's junkyard.

Like, how good is it? But, mate, what about the junk in here? That is obviously the old company, Ute, from the Cuba Petty BP, eh? Unbelievable, eh?

Well, that looks familiar, doesn't it? Mate, that looks incredible. That cop car, actually, because I looked at it last time I was here. is the police car they use in the film Wolf Creek.

Is it the same cop? I'm not sure about the same cop. So, Gav, I'm thinking we put that big. Fifth wheeler on the back of the ram.

Okay, that home, and you can drive that home. Could that be my new crew car? That's your new company car. What do you think?

It's pretty sick. You gonna hop in? No. I think I'd get in that beer.

Tim's junkyard is not your traditional junkyard, I can tell you. This would have to be the best shed in Australia. In fact, it's more like an Aussie Larrikin museum than a junkyard. It's hard to describe just how unique and various Australian this is.

I can't imagine the time, not to mention the money it took to put this place together. It's no wonder that people travel from all corners of the globe just to come here for that taste of the Outback and the Australian way of life. Daly Waters is just another example of why I love the Outback, the people, the history, the way of life, and, of course, the pubs, and the characters that you meet. If you want to feel more Australian, get yourself to an outback town, just like this one, I'm telling you, you won't regret it.

Well, that's a wrap on part, one of our Outback Beef and Barrett episode of Oz Off Road TV. We kicked off an old Cork station in the Channel country, had a beer in Australia's most famous pub, popped into the Mary Kathleen, camped at one of Queensland's most popular camp spots, Adele's Grove, stopped off at some homesteads, cruised some scenic open road, still ate some dust, though, and ended up at the iconic town of Daly Waters. On part 2 of our Outback Beef and Barr adventure, we go inside the Daly Waters pub and have a beer in yarn with the territory's biggest character. We then head north with a couple of stops along the way, including something special in Adelaide River. We check out some more cracking territory pubs, spot some crocs and buffaloes and go fishing at a spot that is the real deal Top End.